Tiramisu Meringue Roulade

Growing up, baking was one of my first passions. As I've gotten more into cooking, I've spent less time baking. Still, whenever an occasion calls for a dessert, I'm the designated dessert queen. For Valentine's Day - I couldn't quite figure out what to make. Flourless chocolate cake or lava cake seem to be staples but with the expansive menu that we had planned, I didn't want a heavy chocolate finale. 

Going on the loosely Italian theme that we had for tonight - one of my favorite desserts came to mind: Tiramisu. While not a "light dish" - Tiramisu typically does not weigh you down like some sweet treats. The creamy yet fluffy "pudding" laced with coffee and booze of some sort (rum, khalua) and light, spongy vessels for soaking up the goodness is a harmonious way to end a meal. Some people like coffee with their dessert. I like coffee in my dessert. 

Still, in all of its perfection, there are two primary issues (for me) with Tiramisu:

1. The Heavy Cream. When whipped up, one often forgets just how dense heavy cream is. I don't mind a touch of it here and there but let's be honest, there are ways around it. And if you have issues with lactose, heavy cream is not your friend. So my version omits the heavy cream and makes a bit of an embarrassing shortcut (ahem...whipped topping) that only my mother would be proud of. If you love heavy cream, by all means, add it to this dish by following the traditional tiramisu pudding recipe.
2. The Lady Fingers. Though more eggy and sugary than floury - these spongy cookies still contain gluten. I could make a gluten free version had I wanted to create a true Tiramisu - but I was instead inspired by a new creative approach.

So in flipping through my trusty Plenty More cookbook, I found a recipe that inspired me to try a new take on a tiramisu. The recipe in itself would have actually been a perfect Valentine's Day dessert: Meringue Roulade with Rose Petals and Fresh Raspberries. How romantic does that sound? Still, stuck on my coffee inspired flavors, I thought - why not make the traditional (or slightly nontraditional) tiramisu filling and roll that up in the light and airy meringue. Both a meringue and lady fingers have similar qualities, so I was certain the flavors would mesh well. Then it was just about the execution.

Meringue for the Roulade - with a touch of coffee grounds

In making the meringue, I was reminded by just how much I will appreciate a KitchenAid once I finally have one in my home. In my stubbornness, I said that I would not let myself have one until I was married. That was a stupid rule - but I guess I've said it for so long that I might as well suffer through my ancient hand mixer to make marriage that much more exciting.

One of my creative additions was that of an unknown amount of coffee grounds. The recipe called for "superfine sugar" which I did not have. Instead, I took my normal cane sugar and ground it up with our coffee grinder which still had some of the coffee bean residue around the vessel. Rather than clean it out, I figured, might as well make a coffee sugar - it's a coffee dessert anyway. It was brilliant. In the recipe, I mentioned "instant coffee" - I would say you could go that route or blend up the fine grounds with the sugar - what's important is that you don't have any significant coffee specks and that it simply imparts the rich flavor on the meringue.

Meringue on a cookie sheet 

I didn't have a jelly roll pan so I used a rimmed cookie sheet that was slightly larger that what was called for. Perhaps it was a bit thinner than what the original recipe called for because I found my meringue needing less baking time. When I checked it at 24 minutes (full cooking time of 30 was listed) the meringue was already just slightly beyond what I would have liked. So be sure to check it in the oven. 

An inadvertent cheat.

The store was all out of regular marscapone but did happen to have this. There is a little bit of coffee and sugar added to it so, again, some of my measurements may be a bit different (for example, I used slightly less coffee than what I listed because this already had some coffee in it) so make your filling to suit your taste.

Filling spread on the meringue - pre-roll

Once the filling suits your taste and appears thick enough to where it is both spreadable but will stay put when rolled - the basic dessert is done. Sure, rolling it up is a bit tricky, but use some patience and make sure to not overcook the meringue. Otherwise it will crack.

Disclaimer: I thought this would happen to mine since the meringue cooked quicker than I anticipated. However, with enough cooling time, the meringue softened and was manageable. If, however, you deem your meringue an utter failure, incapable of rolling - there's an alternative! Just cut it up in strips and treat them like lady fingers for a composed tiramisu. Brush them with additional coffee and rum/khalua and create layers with the filling. Delicious.


Tiramisu Meringue Roulade
inspired by Plenty More's Meringue Roulade with Rose Petals and Fresh Raspberries
serves 8

Meringue

• 4 egg whites
• 1 1/4 cups/250 g superfine sugar
• 1/4 tsp instant espresso
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1 tsp white wine vinegar
• 1 tsp cornstarch

Filling

• 3/4 cup marscapone
• 1/4 cup cream cheese
• 1 1/4 cup whipped topping (could replace with whipped cream)
• 4 Tbsp strong coffee
• 1 Tbsp rum
• 1 tsp powdered sugar
• pinch cinnamon

• extra coffee/rum for brushing
•  cocoa powder (for dusting)

Preheat the oven to 325 F/160 C.

Line the base and sides of a 13 by 9-inch/33 by 23-cm jelly roll pan or rimmed cookie sheet with parchment paper. Allow the paper to rise above the sides of the pan.

To make the meringue, in a large bowl, beat the egg whites with an electric mixer until they begin to firm up. Add the superfine sugar and ground coffee (make sure that it is finely ground to the consistency of the sugar) to the whites in spoonfuls or tip into the bowl in a slow stream. Continue beating until a firm, glossy meringue forms. Using a large metal spoon, gently fold in the vanilla, vinegar, and cornstarch. Spread the mixture inside the prepared pan and level with an offset spatula. 

Bake for 20-30 minutes*, until a crust forms and the meringue is cooked through (it will still feel soft to touch.) Remove from the oven and allow to cool in the pan.

*Note: Ottolonghi's recipe says 30 minutes but I found that after 24 minutes, mine was already cooked beyond where I would have liked. This may be due to differences in thicknesses of the meringue. Just start checking at minute 20.

Unmold the cooled meringue onto a fresh piece of parchment paper. Carefully peel off the lining paper. Poke with shallow holes all around the meringue and brush with reserved coffee (and/or) rum so the flavors just barely seep into the meringue but do not leave it soggy.

Meanwhile make the tiramisu filling. Place the marscarpone, cream cheese, confectioners' sugar, coffee, rum and pinch of cinnamon in a large bowl and whisk by hand until smooth. Fold in the whipped topping until well combined. Alternately, if using cream, add at this point and whisk for about 4 minutes, until the cream just holds it shape or use an electric mixer, being careful to not overmix).

Spread most of the tiramisu mixture over the original underside of the meringue, reserving a few tablespoons. Leave a small border around the edge of the meringue. 

Using the paper to assist you and starting from a long edge, roll up the meringue into a perfect log shape. Carefully transfer the log onto a serving dish. Use the remaining tiramisu cream to create a long strong along the top of the log. Chill for at least 30 minutes.

When ready to serve, dust the log with cocoa powder.

I loved how this came out. Each bite nearly melts in your mouth - imparting a sweet and airy coffee taste with subtle tang from the cheese and kick from the rum. If you taste the filling by itself, it may appear to be "not sweet enough." That's a good thing. The meringue is nearly all sugar so when the two come together - you have a perfect balance between sweet and warm, comforting coffee cream. It keeps well in the refrigerator as well - though if serving more than 3 people, it probably won't last that long.

A perfect way to end a fantastic Valentine's Day meal. Satisfying but not too heavy. That's love.