Thursday, April 30, 2015

Stewed Blackberries with Bay Custard and Gin from "Plenty More"



Blackberries - a sign that warmer weather is nearly here. They are such and odd, intricate fruit if you really look at it. If I had a choice, I typically will choose a raspberry over a blackberry due to the tougher texture and seeds within the blackberry. But with this recipe from Plenty More, the firmness of the blackberry is just it it needed. Stewing blackberries releases juices without fully compromising the shape and texture. This dessert stood out to me as it highlights the highly photogenic fruit while incorporating the unique flavors of bay leaves and gin into a dessert. Yep! I said gin.

Think of this as an awesome, adult ice cream sundae. And for my purposes, it is a simple make-ahead dinner party dessert that will "wow" guest because it's not just your ordinary ice cream sundae. You've got this beautiful incorporation of textures and flavors.

The base is a simple vanilla ice cream - something neutral (but still amazing) to allow the rest of the flavors to shine. You then top it with a homemade bay leaf-infused custard that doesn't scream savory bay leaf but rather introduces a subtle uniqueness that leaves you pondering "what is that?" (in a good way). Then you have the blackberry/gin/rose or orange-blossom water soaked cookies (ladyfingers preferably if you aren't GF) that act as delicate sponges to soak up the mind-blowing juicy/sweet/earthy/floral combination of juices. Top it all off with the stewed blackberries and you've got a dessert that is pretty freaking awesome if I do say so myself.

As I did make this for a dinner party - I did NOT do the final creation justice in pictures. It's quite laughable actually. I so wanted to serve this in a deep martini glass or a glass dessert bowl. Sadly I had neither of those so regular bowls it was - paired with plastic spoons as we had put the regular spoons all in the dishwasher. Classy. I also had to pretend to not be geeky about this dessert so the image that I did end up getting too was laughable.

Nevertheless, it tasted divine. So take my word for it.

Custard base infused with bay leaf
Custard evolution (remove the bay leaf!)
Stewed blackberries - juices drained - see how they hold their texture?!
Just picture the flavor explosion and excuse the image :) 

Stewed Blackberries with Bay Custard and Gin
p. 305 in Plenty More
serves four

Ingredients:
  • about 1 lb/480 g blackberries
  • scant 3 1/2 tbsp/40 g superfine sugar
  • 1 1/2 tsp rose water (or orange blossom water)
  • 2 1/2 tbsp gin
  • 16 ladyfingers, broken into 3/4-inch/2-cm pieces (about 3 oz/90 g)
  • about 1 1/2 pints/360 g vanilla ice cream
Custard:
  • 6 tbsp/90 ml heavy cream
  • scant 5 tbsp/70 ml whole milk
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 3 1/2 tsp/15 g superfine sugar
Directions:
  1. First make the custard. Place the cream, milk and bay leaves in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat immediately. In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolk and sugar until well combined. While whisking, add a little of the milk mixture. (Remove bay leaves from milk mixture). Slowly add the remaining milk mixture, continuously whisking until combined. Return the liquid to the saucepan and place over medium-low heat. Stir continuously for about 10 minutes, until the sauce thickens to a custard. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool. Keep in the fridge until ready to use.
  2. Place 2 cups/300 g of the blackberries in a small saucepan along with the sugar and summer over medium-low heat for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the berries are soft but still hold their shape and lots of liquid has come out. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
  3. Drain the juices from the blackberries and stir the rose water and gin into the juices. Soak the ladyfingers in the juices until they have absorbed all the juice.
  4. To serve, scoop a large portion of ice cream into each of 4 glasses or tumblers. Top with the soaked ladyfingers and then pour the custard over the top. Add the stewed blackberries and the remaining fresh blackberries and serve.




Sunday, April 26, 2015

Globe Artichoke and Mozzarella with Candied Lemon from "Plenty More"


Over the past few months, I have truly found inspiration in the kitchen through Chef Yotam Ottolenghi's amazing collection of recipes in Plenty More. I still find myself flipping through the pages of the book, stopping at new inspirations that I get excited to try. I'm particularly excited for when summertime rolls around because he has so many fabulous recipes that highlight fresh produce from green beans to tomatoes to zucchini. Ah - how fun it will be once those ingredients start showing up (in decent form) in the grocery store. 

However, even now there are some lovely ingredients that are in their peak. Artichokes are one of them - in season from March to May so now is the time to take full advantage of these interesting and delicious vegetables. My typical artichoke experience is a simple steamed whole artichoke served with melted butter for dipping. It's a great appetizer and a fun one at that - taking each leaf and scraping off what little "meat" you can find on each leaf. And unlike many things in life where you find disappointment once you have "reached the end" - the artichoke gives you a pleasant surprise by saving the best part for last - the heart. Ah a fresh artichoke heart is worlds better than anything you can find canned at your local grocery store. It is a bundle of pure, soft, almost creamy bliss. The heart is what is featured in my latest creation from Plenty More: Globe Artichoke and Mozzarella with Candied Lemon.

Who would even think to put these beautiful flavors together? I typically don't use Mozzarella in my salads unless it is paired with tomato and basil. And candied lemon? Well I've never made that so that's a new one for me. But it's basically what hooked me on this recipe as I am a sucker for anything lemon.

With my ingredients laid out in anticipation of joining forces to create a beautiful dish, I stopped to take a moment and appreciate the sunset, one of the most amazing natural inspirations.


Even in the middle of the big city, one can find inspiration in a moment of silent appreciation of natural beauty in the world.

*big sigh*

Now onto the artichokes. I wonder how the experience was for the first person that tried to eat an artichoke. They do not overtly scream "food" with the tough leaves and sharp "hairs." They are certainly not something you would want to just sink your teeth in - I don't think you'd get very far.


In order to properly "trim" an artichoke - you basically have to dissect it. The outer leaves have to be removed. The stem needs to be trimmed. The sharp "hairs' need to be removed. All steps taken to get to the real goods - the heart.


A thing of beauty - but still not ready to be eaten at this stage!

Once trimmed, the small remaining heart joins forces with lemon, onion and thyme to infuse a brightness into the heart during the cooking process.


The candied lemon adds a deeper complexity of lemon flavor to the overall dish. The artichoke is infused with lemon but the candied lemon peel adds a deep, sweet yet zesty note that goes beautifully with the dish.

Butternut Squash, Chickpea and Lentil Stew


Wintertime in Chicago can easily become and excuse to hibernate and indulge in warm comfort food. A crisp salad and a smoothie just doesn't have the same appeal when it is below freezing outside. Instead, something rich and substantial is usually more appetizing in the wintertime. Unfortunately, the equation of "get out less + eat more" doesn't really set you up well for the warmer weather and skimpier clothes that are inevitably coming at the end of winter. That's why when I find a dish that meets that comfort need and also gets an "A" in the health-department, I'm a happy hibernator.

Here's a lovely dish that is easy to make, hearty, healthy and vegetarian. The heft of the lentils, chickpeas and butternut squash is satisfying enough to please any meat-eater. Simmered with warm spices of cumin and cinnamon paired with a touch of heat from red pepper flakes and topped off with a cool tang of Greek yogurt - this is a dish that you should make a full batch of and keep the rest for leftovers as it re-heats beautifully.

The stew is certainly equipped to stand alone on the dinner table. However, we decided to serve it over a bed of quinoa with wilted spinach. We also added some sliced chicken sausage for contrast. Certainly not necessary but we enjoyed the combination.

Cheers to it almost being swimsuit season!

Butternut Squash, Chickpea and Lentil Stew
serves 4-6

Ingredients:
  • 1 teaspoon coconut oil (olive oil works fine as well)
  • 1 onion, diced
  • 6 cloves of garlic, minced
  • 1 Tbsp. tomato paste
  • 2.5 teaspoons cumin
  • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 1 can (15 oz) chickpeas, rinsed and drained
  • 1 can (28 oz) diced tomatoes
  • 2.5 cups organic vegetable or chicken broth
  • 1 lb. butternut squash, peeled, seeded and cubed
  • 1 cup green lentils, rinsed well
  • 1/8 teaspoon saffron, soaked in 1 Tbsp. warm water
  • juice of 1/2 a lemon
  • 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
  • 1/3 cup chopped cilantro (plus additional for garnish)
  • Greek yogurt for garnish
Directions:
  1. Heat the oil in a medium pot over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic; cook a few minutes or until the onion becomes softened.
  2. Stir in cumin, cinnamon, tomato paste, salt and pepper (to taste); cook for a few more minutes until spices are fragrant. Add chickpeas, tomatoes, broth, butternut squash, lentils and saffron. Bring to a boil, then cover, reduce heat and simmer for 15-20 minutes or until butternut squash is tender and lentils are fully cooked.
  3. Stir in lemon, red pepper flakes and cilantro. Taste and adjust seasonings as necessary. Garnish with extra cilantro and Greek yogurt, if desired. 

Quinoa with wilted spinach

topped with some sliced chicken sausage

Smothered by the delicious veggie stew and topped with yogurt and cilantro


Saturday, April 11, 2015

Carrot Cake Torte (Gluten Free)


I'm not sure who ever thought of the concept of putting carrots into a dessert but I'm sure glad they did! Carrot cake is one of those treats that I always forget about but thoroughly enjoy whenever I get the chance to eat it. I love the combination of the sweet, comforting spices (cinnamon) and the tangy cream cheese frosting. There are also awesome textures with the nuts, raisins, and fresh carrots interlaced in the sweet cake. Brilliant! It's a dessert that, if not too sweet, or too heavy, can keep me excited with every bite - unlike its standard chocolate or vanilla cousin.

Since migrating to a gluten-free diet, I haven't eaten or baked too many cakes. Achieving that perfectly fluffy cake is just bit more difficult without gluten (though not impossible). So I've been creating more "tortes" than "cakes." I use those terms loosely because in reality, all tortes are cakes, but not all cakes are tortes (brings me back to my school days). Tortes are generally more dense than a cake and often lower in height. It's those two descriptors that have made me call this latest creation a "torte" rather than a cake. If you set your mind to a fluffy carrot cake, you will be sorely disappointed. However, if you are looking for some that captures all of the delicious flavors of a carrot cake in a more "compact" bar-like treat, then this is a great choice.


I used a Jamie Oliver recipe for a gluten-free Carrot Cake as my base but made a few tweaks along the way. One of the major "tweaks" is unknowingly omitting what is likely a key component of his cake - the gluten-free self-rising flour. This would be an all-purpose gluten free flour with the addition of baking powder and possibly salt. This fact completely slipped past my consideration set as I rushed to mix up the cake and get it in the oven. Only once the cake was in the oven did I realize there was no "rising" ingredient: baking powder. SO torte it is :)

Just a note: if you do not have self rising flour, you can make your own with the following ratio:

  • 1 cup gluten-free flour
  • 1 1/2 teaspoon baking powder
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt

I also made the cake into two layers instead of one as I like to have a little layer of frosting break up my bites of cake. Just a personal preference.

This was a really fantastic take on a carrot cake. Though it isn't light and fluffy (obviously) I actually loved the texture which was more dense but not overly "heavy." The cake itself was not incredibly sweet which may not be ideal for some sweet-tooths but that again was a true delight for me. I served this with a sprinkle of powdered sugar to add a hint of sweetness but after a full meal, I don't feel like something that is cringe-worthy sweet. This was a perfect balance of treat and wholesomeness which didn't make me feel too bad about the fact that I would be consuming the cake for the next few days. Next time I'll try to remember the baking powder - or maybe not - the "torte" texture was a welcome mistake.


Friday, April 10, 2015

Saffron, Date and Almond Rice from "Plenty More"


Here's a perfect side dish to serve at your next dinner party. I specify "dinner party" because, to me, it is a bit sinful for a basic weeknight meal. But that's what makes it so good. I'm talking Paula Deen-approved good. And you know what that means is a key ingredient in this recipe's success? You got it: butter.

Now I'm not averse to butter. I believe in everything in moderation. But I also believe in having some nutritious element appear in each dish I eat and with this one, I have a hard time finding that "saving grace." It is basically white rice (sure, you could go brown, but the recipe timing would certainly change), butter, almonds and dates. Not to dissuade any fellow homecooks from making this awesome side - it's pretty fantastic - but I'm just saying you may want to serve something green alongside it :)

That's just what Derek and I did when we served this up alongside our Easter dinner of roasted leg of lamb and the orange and date salad (see previous post). I basically licked the bowl clean. Let's be honest, who doesn't want and love the comfort of buttery white rice, elevated with sweet and pungent saffron spice and dates, and given a textural surprise with the almonds. Heaven.

A note on saffron: If you are not well acquainted with the fabulous Mediterranean spice, get that relationship going already! It's actually one the "world's most expensive spice!" But don't let that deter you. A little can go a long way and grocery stores generally sell it in small enough quantities that you don't have to break the bank to purchase it. Saffron is what makes the final dish appear a yellow-orange color. It's also a star in Paella so you've likely had it before without knowing what that wonderful little ingredient was!


The recipe itself is quite odd. And I'll be honest, we took a shortcut as we had not pre-read the instructions (Cooking 101) and did not have 1-2 hours to spare to let the rice soak. That technique, followed by the multi-step cooking process, is designed to "perfectly cook" the basmati rice and ensure that each little grain of rice is separated from the rest of the pack. When I make this again (see, I did say when, despite my note of caution, this has a potential to be a real crowd-pleaser) I will set aside time to ensure that the recipe is given proper attention. And by time - I'm talking 2-3+ hours from start to finish - though not all hand on.

If you are short on time, you can cook the rice to an al dente texture (say 85% of the way there) and then pick up with the latter part of step 2 (rinse and drain).

We cooked a half recipe of the rice and polished it off between three of us. The full recipe says it is for four people but I'd argue that the full recipe could go a bit further if the rice is not the star of your dish.



Saffron, Date and Almond Rice
page 49 in Plenty More
serves 4-6

Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Orange and Date Salad from "Plenty More"


I admittedly have been slacking on posting delicious meals, recipes or wines. And I wish I could say that there have been a lot of fabulous creations coming out of my kitchen. Unfortunately, that hasn't been the case. Work and travel have made it difficult for me to spend time at home, in the kitchen, and sharing fabulous creations. It's a bummer when work gets in the way of play!

Luckily a holiday popped up on the calendar and was able to take me out of my cooking/posting rut. Thanks Easter. I could play on shared concept of "revival" but focusing on the food is probably more PC.

Growing up, Easter tradition involved a spiral-sliced ham and JELL-O Easter eggs. Certainly there were more dishes in the mix but these are the two staples that I recall consistently showing up on our dinner table. I was always in charge of making the JELL-O eggs which were basically JELL-O Jigglers that were shaped liked Easter eggs  - just another example of the Sugermeyer family letting dessert creep onto the dinner table.

Nowadays, JELL-O eggs no longer show up at Easter time. Instead, Derek and I look forward to our new "grown-up" Easter tradition: Lamb.

To me, the basic flavor of lamb has a touch sweetness and a hint of warm spices. These nuances make the protein a beautiful fit for a Moroccan inspired meal - a beautiful mixture of fresh herbs and warm spices. So think holidays (spices) meet summer (fresh herbs). It's a beautiful marriage.

In the spirit of freshness, I went looking for a complimentary dish that incorporated these Moroccan inspired flavored but swayed heavier on the "fresh" than on the "warm." Ottolenghi with his inspired Plenty More cookbook did not disappoint me. To no surprise, he has several dishes that are heavy on the herbs and artfully incorporate unique spices and textures.

My selection to compliment the Easter lamb meal was: Orange and Date Salad

From the name alone you get a burst of freshness and acidity from the orange paired with a deeply sweet and chewy date. Add in a myriad of fresh herbs - cilantro, mint, parsley - and a spice-forward dressing and you have a complex yet fresh compliment for a lamb dinner.


Orange and Date Salad 
page 23 in Plenty More
serves 4

Ingredients:
  • 5 medium oranges (2 1/4 lb/1 kg in total; about 3 cups/500 g after peeling and slicing)
  • 3 large Medjool dates, pitted and quartered lengthwise (2 oz/60 g)
  • 4 oz/120 g radishes, sliced paper-thin
  • 1/3 small red onion, very thinly sliced into rings (1/3 cup/30 g)
  • 3 cups/60 g arugula
  • 1 oz/30 g Lollo Rosso lettuce (2-3 leaves), torn into 1 1/4-inch/3-cm pieces
  • 1 cup/15 g cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 cup/15 g flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
  • 1/2 cup/15 g mint leaves, coarsely torn
Dressing:
  • 2 tbsp lemon juice
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed
  • 1 tsp orange blossom water
  • 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
  • 2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • salt and black pepper
  • (optional) 1.5 tsp honey
Directions:
  1. To make the dressing, whisk together the lemon juice, garlic, orange blossom water, cinnamon, and fennel seeds. Add the olive oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and a generous grind of pepper and whisk until well combined. Set aside.
  2. Using a small, sharp serrated knife, slice off the top and tail of each orange. Cut down the sides of each orange, following its natural curve, to remove the skin and white pith. Cut crosswise into slices 1/4 inch/5 mm thick and remove the seeds.
  3. Put the oranges, dates, radishes, onion, arugula, lettuce, cilantro, parsley, and mint in a large salad bowl. Stir the dressing and pour it over the salad. Gently stir everything together, pile into a large but shallow bowl, and serve.
Tips:
  • If you can't find Lollo Rosso lettuce, you can use any mild leaf lettuce such as red-leaf (that's what I used)
  • Orange blossom water is often found in the international aisles or near the baking/sweetener section. It has an incredibly perfume-like scent which will likely appear familiar to you even though you've likely never purchased or individually consumed the ingredient. If you can't find it - just use some orange juice and zest with a touch of honey.
  • I found the dressing to be a bit too heavy on the spices without a needed balance. I added a touch of honey and that did the trick.
  • When segmenting the oranges, do so over a bowl so you save the juices. You don't want the juices sitting in the greens of the salad but they are a nice addition to the dish. So separate the "fallen juice" from the orange segments and add the orange juice to the dressing. Then dress the salad to taste but I'd go on the light side for this with all of the delicate herbs - you don't want a soggy salad.